A brief orientation brings
us back down to earth. We are in the heart of the Sabi Sand Wildtuin, home
to Africa's big game, Elliot explains, and there are no fences between
our reserve, the Kruger National Park and Mozambique. Big game? No fences?
Open vehicles? The bush is deceptively quiet for a city dweller, concealing
hundreds of creatures big and small. One of the other guides tells us that
just the day before a pride of lions had brought down a zebra right next
to the landing strip. Our safari has begun.
A luxurious African Safari
Experience
Our visit to Sabi Sabi Private
Game Reserve came with the choice of four lodges: Bush Lodge, Little Bush
Camp, Selati Camp and Earth Lodge. We opted to spend two nights at the
redesigned Bush Lodge and then two at Earth Lodge, which is a popular option
available to visitors. Having been told that Bush Lodge had recently undergone
a total redesign and remodelling project, I was expecting to see a new-looking
lodge. However, on arrival, it was difficult to imagine that Bush Lodge
hadn't been there for years, so warm and inviting is the whole atmosphere
- not to mention the staff. The lodge entrance manages to be incredibly
luxurious while conveying the feeling that you are visiting a close friend's
home. Sabi Sabi operations director, Rod Wyndham, who together with wife
Lauren run Bush Lodge, explained that the philosophy behind Bush Lodge's
redesign centred around a providing a haven in the bush while reflecting
the many African influences behind the design.
 Everywhere
there are artefacts from all over the continent - a mix of colonial and
ethnic - brought together by rich fabrics and textures and a design that
looks out across the bush over a waterhole. After a brief introduction
from Rod we were shown to our beautiful suite and invited to return for
late afternoon tea followed by an evening safari. For those who have never
experienced an African game lodge, it difficult to convey the luxury that
exists in such close proximity to totally unspoilt wildlife. We were so
taken with our suite we considered missing the evening drive, but eventually
decided to give it a go - a very good decision in the end.
Afternoon tea is taken on
one of two huge decks overlooking a waterhole and furnished with huge,
comfortable chairs ideal for relaxing and surveying the bushveld. Soon
we were heading out again - this time on evening safari with Elliot and
Phios. We hadn't driven very far when we spotted two giraffes feeding in
a thicket. Given their proximity to our lodge I was very grateful they
weren't lions, but didn't admit this to the party we were with - all seasoned
bush goers. As our drive progressed, the heat abated, the light softened
and the shadows lengthened. We saw a herd of elephants, breathtakingly
close; kudu, zebra, hippo and the shy nyala before Elliot's radio announced
a sighting close by of 'dogs', which caused instant excitement on our Land
Rover. Suddenly it dawned on me - we were about to experience what very
few people ever do - African wild dogs, one of the continent's endangered
and seldom seen species. En route to the sighting, Elliot explained that
while wild dogs are often on Sabi Sabi property, there hadn't been a sighting
for a couple of months. He reminded us to remain seated and quiet and we
set off. About five minutes away we slowed down and approached the area
where Sven, another guide had spotted the dog family - five adults comprising
three female and two males. I was struck by how small they are, especially
when Elliot explained that they are one of the most successful hunting
animals in Africa with 90% success rate. They hunt in packs, efficiently
and without fuss. The family seemed to be on the move and soon we were
following them. They were on a trail, every so often stopping to survey
their surroundings through sight, hearing and smell.
 Years
of habituation have made the animals at Sabi Sabi almost oblivious of the
safari vehicles and the family carried on as if we were not just a few
metres away. It was awesome to see these animals behaving normally in their
natural habitat. Moving off road to keep with the sighting, the dogs picked
up their pace on the trail of some prey until we lost them in a thicket
of thorn trees. After trying unsuccessfully to locate them further on -
they had disappeared as quickly and quietly as they had appeared - Elliot
suggested we stop for sundowners. While we encountered the most incredible
wildlife during our stay, including lions hunting, two different leopards,
hippo, buffalo and even a snake, the wild dog sighting was the highlight
of our game viewing. Sundowners are served in the open bush, a refreshing
break before resuming the safari in darkness. Returning to Bush Lodge we
forewent the chance to freshen up for dinner in favour of adjourning to
the welcoming bar to swap stories with other guests and compare notes on
our experiences.
A four-course boma dinner,
complete with fresh venison and an array of other dishes, was accompanied
by a fine wine from an impressive collection. An early night was called
for as morning wake up call was just a few hours away.
Our days at Bush Lodge followed
in the same gentle rhythm, two daily safaris, delicious food and wonderful
staff, mainly from the local Shangaan communities of Huntingdon, Justicia
and Lilydale.
On our third day we transferred
to Earth Lodge. The arrival is totally unexpected as the lodge is all but
invisible from a distance, being sculpted into the earth and having been
recreated to blend seamlessly with the surrounding bush. It was the first
lodge of its genre to break with the colonial tradition and the effect
is breathtaking. It has clean lines that look out over unspoiled bush,
an unadorned cement and pigment finish and uses influences from nature
in its every aspect: buck horns as legs for chairs, uprooted trees carved
into elaborate furniture pieces, natural skylights, anthill roofs for the
suites. Our suite is the most luxurious we have ever stayed in. Dominated
by a huge carved wooden bed, it opens up to a private splash pool and the
bush. An enormous bathroom with a stone bath has uninterrupted views of
the bushveld, and there are indoor and outdoor showers. I indulged in an
outdoor shower for the first time although they are also a feature at Bush
Lodge. The main lodge has an indoor / outdoor dining area, reading lounge,
Zen garden, Camelot spa and a 6000-bottle subterranean wine cellar where
we enjoyed unique Earth Lodge cuisine for our last dinner at the reserve.
All too soon the visit was
over and we were driving to the airstrip where we had arrived. En route,
we saw and heard an African fish eagle, surely one of the most evocative
sounds in the wild - and a fitting end to a wonderful experience.
top
About the Author - This travel
article was written by a guest at Sabi
Sabi Private Game Reserve in South Africa.
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